Leggings aren't going according to plan

which I kind of expected. I'm using the big piece of fleece-backed knit I bought and the sleep shirt went well enough. The keyhole neckline came out a little wonky, but it's just for sleeping. So are this first pair of leggings.

This is also the first new pattern I've had to buy since KwikSew went under. If you use the same pattern company all the time, you get used to how to alter their patterns to fit you - they use the same 'theoretical body model' for everything. I know KwikSew and Folkwear's models. Simplicity, not so much.

The legs are much too long. Ok, I can shorten them. The 5/8" seam allowance on a non-fraying knit is ridiculous; it needs to be 1/4". And the pattern said the waistline was designed to sit below the waist, so that isn't completely blame-able on the body model. However, these take low-rise to a limit that it was never meant to approach. Nobody wants to see that, especially on me. There's a panel on the top that I'll have to recut twice as high in order to avoid plumber's butt. Oh, well, this one's going to be under the shirt.

But now I need to re-draw the pattern. I want to be able to make actually useable sets of long johns, including bottoms. The way I work (and why I can use patterns over and over) is that I don't cut up the original pattern. I trace it out, including alterations, on tracing paper. I have a big roll of the stuff. Once I have a perfected pattern that fits me, I can just whip it out, slap it down on the fabric and start cutting. Even pieces that are supposed to be 'cut on a fold' are traced out fully, which helps me tell whether I have enough fabric before I start cutting. And if I need to make a different size, or longer/shorter, or any other changes, I still have the original pattern to work with.

So - 2" off the leg bottoms and re-draw the leg lines. The ankle seams are going to be straight vertical for about 4", to make hemming easier. It's a stretch fabric made into a garment with 'negative ease'. There's no good reason to angle it down all the way to the bottom. Add 3" at the top of the legs, so the panel that goes from there to the waistline can go back to being a reasonable size, instead of looking like a pregnancy panel. It's still going to be below my natural waist, but at least it won't be below my navel.

I don't think I'm cool enough for athleisure. I just want to be warm.