The Refries That Bind: A Cavernous Cantina Returns, Cliff Divers and All
With infinity dollars poured in by the creators of South Park, a fabled Colorado restaurant reopens with the same 1970s vibe and drastically improved food.
The refurbished Casa Bonita, a beloved, and mocked, Colorado institution. The 56,000-square-foot Mexican restaurant went bankrupt during the pandemic but was rescued by new owners, Trey Parker and Matt Stone of South Park fame.Credit...David Williams for The New York Times
By Matt Richtel
Photographs by David Williams
Published June 6, 2023
Updated June 7, 2023, 5:27 p.m. ET
Colorados defining features include glorious mountain peaks, vivid seasonal colors, skiing and a widespread compulsion to exercise and eat well. But for generations of Colorado children, arguably the most commonly shared experience involved Casa Bonita, a vast, filthy, poorly-lit, underground restaurant with food that many diners deemed barely edible.
Casa Bonita then sprawling over 52,000 square feet in Lakewood, a Denver suburb served steamed refried beans, tacos and enchiladas to thousands of people a day, buffet-style. The dinner entertainment was a childs fever dream: waterfalls, cliff divers, Black Barts Cave, faux gold and silver mines, puppet shows and a person in a gorilla costume chased by a sheriff, who sometimes joined in the cliff diving. Casa Bonitas curious childhood grip was chronicled in an episode of South Park.
After that episode ran, Trey Parker and Matt Stone, the shows creators, were regularly asked whether such a place actually existed. Oh, thats a place, Mr. Parker would respond, he said recently. Its crazy. Its weird. Like so many Colorado children, Mr. Parker had held his birthday parties there.
Then, in 2020, Casa Bonita went bankrupt, hit by the pandemic slump. The place was already in disrepair, crumbling from deferred maintenance, rife with electrical hazards, the ventilation systems coated with grease and the carpet encrusted into something like concrete. The jokes about the food had earned it the nickname Casa NoEata. Still, its passing was mourned.
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