It was raining at the time, and it made one hell of a racket inside. Shingles really dampen the noise.

And we love the sound when its raining. Like a heavy metal drum solo!

The less expensive ones are great. Have one on my garage now. Only problem with them is you must check the screws after a few years. Not hard to do, but a must. Those roofing screw have a softer compression gaskets to them. They can fail after a few years. Just have to check on them. Have to find a good local contractor to install. Those big ones that advertise all the time on the boob tube won't do it. Find a local that does lots of pole barns.
Let us know how you do.

Rubber parts fail and need replacing. Kind of kills the idea of a worry-free roof for 50+ years. Ugh. Do all standing seem roofs have them?

Doubt if the have failed in 20 years. You can go with some of the newer metal roofs, have to talk to your local metal siding dealer.
Sound never bothers me. I live on a busy main 5 lane highway. Always have my big free stand air cleaner running for my “white noise” to cover it up.

And no sound from rain because they put the metal roof right on top of the old roof. Total cost about 8 grand.

Sounds MUCH MUCH better than 35K. I shall continue searching for a standing seam installer....

When it rains, the water flows faster and more freely, often overwhelming the gutters.

Still beats shingles for practicality and cost.

... of course he's bad mouthing standing seam, he's selling another product. If standing seam is used so much by commercial buildings, maintenance can't be too much of a problem. Buy from a metal roofing supplier that's been in the business for decades, there's a lot of them, with a thirty year guarantee. I would hesitate to buy from anyone not having been in business longer than the guarantee.

Include the cost of them getting an electrician to R&R the panels, but I think that is very small cost (relative to to the roof). I think it's their fancy shingle-look, which I don't really care about. I would have the only house in the 'hood with a non-shingle (or shingle-looking roof), though.

... if you can get it in white, if the tear off and disposal is included, if the sq footage is around 2000sf - sounds reasonable.

I'd still go for stand seam because the fasteners are not flat on the roof deck.

Always remove the old roof. Run away fast from any contractor that tells you otherwise.

True standing seam does not have any exposed fasteners.

The rubber washers with screw are used on corrugated roofing which I’ve also stayed away from.

Because some of the plywood is iffy, I think. Some waviness to parts of my roof---I want it all to be nice and level and last forever.

When I build something for myself or friends, I use 'Rainguard Galvalume'. It's stronger and faster since it covers 3' per sheet rather than 2'. You can't solder it, but there are some good glues these days like 'Great Stuff'. It will take purlin spacing of 30" instead of 24 which saves on materials and time. Don't put it on top of existing asphalt shingles or tarpaper. You need some spacers for a thermal break and keeping the bottom dry. My dealer will cut it to length and deliver although I use a trailer to pick it up. Don't screw it in the flat, only on top of the ridges. The screws will back out at the top and bottom due to thermal expansion if screwed in the flat. Don't overtighten the screws, you will crush the gasket. If you are collecting rainwater off of it, it's worth it to have industrial gutters made for it since you will get less spill over. When feeding you tanks, keep your feeder pipes in the air to avoid standing water in the pipe. Sunlight will penetrate PVC and that causes algae growth. Also paint the pipes since sunlight degrades PVC. Wow, I got into a little rant there didn't I. Hope this helps!

Do you? LOL. I was Googling and there is a place near here that makes Galvalume sheets---but they don't seem to install it. So I'd have to find a good installer and a company to R&R the panels.

A friend who got a regular shingle roof installed was also extolling the virtues of larger, commercial gutters. Sounds like an extra-good idea with a metal roof. I had vinyl gutters made for another house and they seem to be really good. Just have to find out if that company makes the bigger ones. I was wondering about the thermal break--I watch a Youtube guy named Matt Reisinger (The Build Show) and he uses metal roofs with thermal breaks, passive house design, etc. I'm trying to do the best I can with this 1950's house....plans and technology have come a long way since then!

... on a 127-year-old house and have had no problems at all. The roof is 20+ years old. We considered a solar installation, but the cost was prohibitive.

Plus the prices of panels have dropped a lot and the panels are more efficient (so you need fewer). Mine paid for themselves a decade ago.

... when we last considered it, the federal subsidies had expired. Haven't thought much about it since. Thanks for the tip.

and there is nothing exposed, like grommets, to deteriorate. I also have solar panels and they are clamped on and holding tight. Until I had put the panels on, it had not crossed my mind that they not only produce electricity, but put the roof under shade. If you can afford it, do it!

My panels (along with my 1997 Toyota Corolla that is rolling along with 410,000 miles) were amongst my best purchases ever! Both have paid massive dividends.

I'll let you all know what they look like. I don't know how I even found the first company...I think it was a pop-up ad. They are not even THAT local (somewhere in North Jersey) and were very expensive. Now the search is getting real.....