with more sand pushed into the cracks afterward are quite stable. Mortar isn't used in New England because it will eventually fail. Sand allows the pavers to shift just enough to avoid cracking, heaving, and other things that poured concrete is well known to do.

I didn't do a patio, I did a deck that was well off the ground. However, friends with more money than I had did the pavers and sand and it worked out very well for them. The only pain in the neck was occasionally pulling weeds out of the sand and then resanding the whole business, but that was minor, IMO.

(for the OP)

1) Make sure you compact the sand after about every 2".
2) You'll want a few inches of pack material or sand under the pavers. The exact amount depends on how much clay there is in your soil. You'll probably need a minimum of 4".
3) If you want to avoid the weed problem, use polymeric sand for the sand-between-the-pavers. It has an additive that causes the sand to stick together better, thus preventing weeds while still allowing movement.

Definitely want to minimize weeds as I hate weeding (not that anyone LOVES weeding.)

but got intimidated by the varying opinions on footings.

Is yours floating?

and Lally columns along the outside, set into generous footings. It was built in 1978 and a quick look at Google Earth confirmed it's still holding up just fine.

The deck floor was 2x6 lumber set half an inch apart to allow water and snow melt to pass through rather than sit on the wood and encourage rot.

we do it by digging out the area about 11 inches deep. 7 inches or so of compacted road base(preferably limestone screenings), 1 inch of sand onto which the bricks(stones) go, with sand in between. That is the way we did it when I worked in the business. For more specifics, just ask. Accounting for drainage and leveling are quite vital as well.

Does the sand cover the drainage or do you have to build in a slight slope for runoff?

Off to Google "limestone screenings" as that's a term I haven't seen as yet in my research.

so you need a slight slope-not too hard-a transit is best but you can use a long level or a level placed on a very straight board or whatever.

Is there a time of year that it's better to install? i.e. does the patio need to "cure" any particular length of time before it meets winter cold/ice/snow?

as long as it is fairly dry(not early Spring, melt-off) it doesn't matter much.

I was talking to the friend I worked for(landscaper). He agreed that it needed plenty of base and one inch of sand as the final material into which you lay the pavers.
Oh--there is no weeding with this method. I recently looked at a job we did in 2004-looks as good as when we put it in.
Also--a floating deck would be MUCH easier to do--but it still needs upkeep. Footings are easy and you don't need tons of material.
Feel free to ask anything else-I am an unemployed teacher that is subbing here and there. Any and all interaction is welcome!!!

And for teachers!! Many in my family, including mr beac.

Will definitely keep the annoying questions coming.