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SHRED

(28,136 posts)
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 11:45 AM Jan 2018

Pilot light on water heater won't stay lit


My suspicion is the thermocouple is bad.
Just confirming that I should start there.

I can get it to fire up as needed but since the pilot won't stay lit it doesn't fire up after that.

My water heater is about 12 years old.
24 replies = new reply since forum marked as read
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Pilot light on water heater won't stay lit (Original Post) SHRED Jan 2018 OP
Yes, that is what I would look at first Hokie Jan 2018 #1
The thermocouple is probably one of the least expensive places to start. Arkansas Granny Jan 2018 #2
Simple stuff first. cloudbase Jan 2018 #3
Thank you all! SHRED Jan 2018 #4
Good luck SHRED Wwcd Jan 2018 #5
Thanks SHRED Jan 2018 #6
I had the same problem. It was the thermal couple. LastLiberal in PalmSprings Jan 2018 #7
First thing,find the Serial Number Wellstone ruled Jan 2018 #8
Thanks SHRED Jan 2018 #11
Most likely it was made by Whirlpool. Wellstone ruled Jan 2018 #12
Sage advice SHRED Jan 2018 #16
Bradford White Wellstone ruled Jan 2018 #17
Mine is strapped to the wall SHRED Jan 2018 #19
Oh yah, Wellstone ruled Jan 2018 #20
I notice it does grumble SHRED Jan 2018 #21
You might have about 3 months Wellstone ruled Jan 2018 #22
So a Rheem and be done with it? SHRED Jan 2018 #23
I don't care gibraltar72 Jan 2018 #9
. SHRED Jan 2018 #10
Wrong. It's the soot deposited on the tip of the thermocouple. Remove the deposit with a NCjack Jan 2018 #14
This works most of the time just use a small fine wire brush if you have one randr Jan 2018 #18
I have had success with a piece of sand paper. But a new thermocouple is cheap and easy to replace. Midnight Writer Apr 2018 #24
One other check... flotsam Jan 2018 #13
I will thanks SHRED Jan 2018 #15

Hokie

(4,298 posts)
1. Yes, that is what I would look at first
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 11:52 AM
Jan 2018

The thermocouple has to sense the pilot flame to keep the pilot gas valve open. Make sure the thermocouple is in the proper place to sense the pilot too. It might have come loose or have been bent.

7. I had the same problem. It was the thermal couple.
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 01:16 PM
Jan 2018

It's a cheap fix if you do it yourself, about $100 if you have someone do it for you.

 

Wellstone ruled

(34,661 posts)
8. First thing,find the Serial Number
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 01:36 PM
Jan 2018

you will need that as well as the Model number when you start chasing your parts. Best to call the Manufactures Help line. If you are in a real bind,Call Appliance Parts. They are the go to for most repairman. If it is a Whirlpool Item don't waste your time going to Lowe's for that part. There are at least twelve different variations of those Thermocouples that I am aware of.

Another source of Parts is Ferguson,sad to say,they might not have weekend hours.

 

SHRED

(28,136 posts)
11. Thanks
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 02:17 PM
Jan 2018

Weird thing is it started working this morning after I lit it.

We have a Ferguson near me just in case.

It's a Kenmore Power Miser 12 model 15533314444.

 

Wellstone ruled

(34,661 posts)
12. Most likely it was made by Whirlpool.
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 02:33 PM
Jan 2018

You can find a replacement via the Sears Parts Web site. It takes some time as that site tends to want to upsell you something and will stall about the time you get close to what you are looking for.

Your Regular,temp control may been on it's last legs also, BTW,time to replace that unit,we had one of the same blow out the top. which is the typical fail point on that Model. We were out of town for a month and came back to 40k in water damages. And if one things Sears is going to pay anything or any amount based on the Unit Warrantee,for get about it,they have change all their appliance warranties,read the fine print.

BYW,another thing possible is the flare tube end of the Pilot Lite might be cruded up. With the new blending techneques used in the Natural Gas Industry,you might just have some chemical buildup on the flare tip.

 

Wellstone ruled

(34,661 posts)
17. Bradford White
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 06:31 PM
Jan 2018

Reheem. Best bang for the buck is Home Depot. Non of the new Heaters will ever make their so called Warranty,Sold to darn many and loved the extra Commiss. Reheem nine year or if you can snag a 12 year on sale for Nine year price,crab it.. Only real difference is the thickness of the Insulation to be honest. If it was Electric that would be a different Pony. Bradfords are made in Michigan,Reheem can not remember right off hand. Believe A.O.Smith is still in Milwaukee,not sure,they are another great heater.

Don't know your local Codes as to doing replacement,here we have Permits and Earth quake installment requirements.

 

SHRED

(28,136 posts)
19. Mine is strapped to the wall
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 07:08 PM
Jan 2018

SoCal.

Thanks.

So mine being 12 years old in March has lasted a long time?

I replaced the plastic drain spigot with a heavy duty brass valve. I use it a lot for mop water. I figured that also helps flush it since I do get particles when I first crack it open.
In other words I'm thinking I've prolonged it's life by reducing calcium/mineral buildup and the corrosion it does?

 

Wellstone ruled

(34,661 posts)
20. Oh yah,
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 08:22 PM
Jan 2018

we replaced the blown up Kenmore with a Bradford white contractor grade(6yr) and will swap that sucker out at the five year mark. Our local Water District is using a Chlorine Gas Mixture to Eliminate any Botch,but,the water is very acidic so via the Heating Process,it speeds up the wear and tear process. Drain that sucker twice a year and like you,the first cup full or so,crud shows up. To be expected,seen worse. If your heater is growling or rumbling,get that thing out of there big time. It is telling you the Coiled water tubing is about to volcano.

 

Wellstone ruled

(34,661 posts)
22. You might have about 3 months
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 11:13 PM
Jan 2018

of safe use from what you just described. Remember you Home Owners Insurance most likely has a Thousand dollar deductible..

Remember ours doing the same,had to go take care of a sick Sister in Law,and on the way,told my Spouse going to replace that Water Heater before we head back east. Well,we got home 8 hours after I said that,guess what,the damn Heater had blown it's top 3 days before. Lucky our Lawn Guy say water running out from under the Garage Door and shut the Main off at the street.

When I hit the door opener,we had Sheet Rock Tape popping lose as when drove in. And 40k dollars of repairs to take care of. Seven hard days of Demo and Drying out plus treating all the exposed framing to prevent Mold. We got lucky,our Homeowners covered everything but a grand. Remember what I said about that so called Warranty,it still would be worthless toilet paper.

NCjack

(10,297 posts)
14. Wrong. It's the soot deposited on the tip of the thermocouple. Remove the deposit with a
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 02:34 PM
Jan 2018

nylon paint brush. Problem solved. (Never happened to me, but I read about it in a murder mystery.)

randr

(12,480 posts)
18. This works most of the time just use a small fine wire brush if you have one
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 06:48 PM
Jan 2018

a nylon brush may leave its own deposits and not be aggressive enough for baked on soot. An old tooth brush can be used in a pinch.
Be careful not to move the sensor line any further from flame than you find it. Sensor tube could also use a fine brushing.
If this fails to resolve problem replace thermo unit asap. You may want to do that in the near future as a precaution anyway.

flotsam

(3,268 posts)
13. One other check...
Sat Jan 27, 2018, 02:33 PM
Jan 2018

Make sure there is no infiltration of the area by wind. Check any area for gaps around things like expansion valve drains and gas or oil piping...

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