but I am also in 6b and I have many of the same perennials, and I don't do anything. They survive the winter without any problem or work. And they thrive.

The only thing that I worry about is weeds, and that is usually something I worry about when spring gets here.

I know they're OK for this area and probably will make it on their own - but if I can baby them a bit, I will

Curmudgeoness!

Those plants are all hardy and many are native to the area, and they should make it just fine. If you want to baby them, feel free. I find that putting mulches leaves on my flower gardens looks nice----and I suppose that it is beneficial too. But for me, it is just a way to dispose of all the leaves that I have from five humungous oak trees.

Good luck, whichever way you go. And if you get tired of all the work to protect the plants, don't feel guilty. And if one of them does not survive, it is too sensitive to keep anyways. At least that is how I look at it....survival of the fittest.

Then again, you probably do not want to see the mess that is my flower garden. Not the prettiest in the world, but the bees and butterflies love it. Some times of the year, I can't get near it to water the container plants located in those beds.

placement / design is fun, but the rest of it - especially here in humid spring / summer weather - is not my biggest thrill.

I just want something that makes the bees and butterflies and hummingbirds happy - sounds like your garden does just that.

I really can't believe it's almost October -- I'll check the temperatures mid-October and go from there.

I'm in Zone 4 and I have a lot of the same plants (everything other than lantana and tickweed), I never have had to do anything and they've survived our crappy Minnesota winters with no trouble. My experience with these was that the second summer after I planted them they were doing well, and by the third summer they'd really taken off.

to make it look tidy and give a little extra protection ... and see what happens!

Leaving some top growth provides a little cover during winter. Don't mulch heavily because it can smother some plants. I recommend planting lots of hardy bulbs in October if you want to be out in the garden doing something useful! I will be doing just that.... Oh, you can lightly mulch fall- planted pansies and they can overwinter and bloom the following spring (works for me in Columbus Ohio).

Mostly perennials: planted 3 aster frikartiis the other day, and today dug up a barberry and burning bush- can't wait to buy a new, less invasive shrub for that spot tomorrow! Planted 6 or 7 day lilies from Oakes 2 weeks ago- a splurge, couldn't resist. Last year I bought a late-blooming aster at Lowe's on sale for $1.50 and planted it in early November- it did fine and is just starting to bloom now. Soon I'll plant bulbs: tulips, lilies, muscari, chinodoxa, galanthus, anemone giants. I'm addicted! Hope your living situation works out so you can enjoy more gardening. ( :

I have the Catmint and Salvia Ost Friesland, with plenty of others. My climate is 6a/6b.

1) After a good frost run a weed whip over the flowers @ about 2" above
ground level.

2) lightly mulch them if you want

3) Give them a nice long drink of water

4) Forget about them till next spring

******
the lantana will not make to next year (good chance)

A lot of plants like to be cut back pretty hard in the fall, but not all Salvias.

The bee balm, yarrow, and catmint like a good hard trimming.

I read gardening site and books and they use terms that mean something to gardeners, but not really to novices like me.

What counts as a "hard trimming"? I'm always afraid I'm going to hurt the plants.

I don't remember what kind of salvia - I saved the tag and will check in the morning.