Make sure it will function with your car.
Not all scanners work for all cars especially older cars.
They usually list the model year and makes it covers.

I've got 2 a cheapo (10.99) I use for my 1999 Subaru Legacy/Outback.
Clears codes.

And a Zurich ZR8 (Harbor Freight) use this one on my 2000 Mazda B4000 (Ford Ranger in disguise).
It does not work on the subaru.

There's a HFT near me. Their inexpensive fuel pump pressure tester doesn't work on GM throttle body systems, which I think is what I have. Their expensive pressure tester does have the necessary adapter. Autozone will let me take home a pressure tester that will work on GM TB fuel injection.

My 2000 Saturn is essentially an Opel built in Wilmington, Delaware.

Thanks.

I got it on sale or used one of their 25% off coupons.
Think I paid like $75.00

The November monthly flyer is out now. The sale booklet they mail out runs through the end of the month.

Lots of old car forums have threads about HFT tools and scanners in general. I'm not sure that there will be a consensus on one scanner and one scanner only.

Thanks

get the Hum for $10/month. Good for lots of stuff. Reads all codes all of the time. Can locate your car in the parking lot if you forget, tells mpg, safe driving score, emergency help, directions and more.

Works via bluetooth with a mobile app. A bit frustrating in terms of the app layout, but seems to work well.

Just beware the super cheap bluetooth ELM327 clones on eBay (usually blue translucent plastic).
They will work well with some cars, but not at all on others.
Mine will read my Volvo V70, but won't read my Chevy Astro, for example.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Smartphone/dp/B00QRE0OOA

I'm on android. If you are an Apple user, a little searching will show the same for your cell/ipod/tablet.
The Torque app is free (with a minor ad attached). It's the one I use and the ad is very un-obtrusive.
The pro version is ad free.

Forget the cheap ones, you might as well toss you wallet in the harbor.....
In addition, ANY scan may be futile because it's a "no start" condition and the resident codes may or may not have any bearing on why it's not starting.
Most no start complaints are fuel pressure or lack of spark related (unless the dreaded timing belt snapped) so there may or may not be a valid code in memory anyway.
When you cycle the key the ECU powers the fuel pump for 2 seconds and refers to a read only map to control spark and fuel injection just long enough to get it to run, then after it (the ECU) sees crankshaft rotation (above starter motor speeds) it begins to monitor sensor inputs and manages output commands to the injectors and ignition system SO, no codes can/will set during "key on/engine crank" situations..

Did you have a "Check Engine" lamp lit the last time you drove it?
If so there will be a fault code (or 9) in the memory but the stuff that sets a fault codes are not usually responsible for no start conditions. (Hard start maybe).

To sum up, be wary of non-professional scan related info, changing parts until one of them fixes it can get real spendy real fast.

Look for a used OTC 4000E with GM software for 2001 or newer. It will give you date stream which you will need to help with your no start. The 4000E is a pro scan tool but an older model I bought my first one new 1993 and still have it at the time it was around $1,500 The latest one I bought in 2013 is a OTC Genisys and was about the same price. The full featured scan tools are a real life saver and a big improvement over a simple code reader. I have spend the last 40 years as a fleet technician.

Most people on the Saturn car forum are happy with Actron and Scangauge.

Welcome to DU.