but the idle validation switch has two circuits, and they have to agree, for the sake of redundancy on a somewhat important safety-related device. Assuming that one has failed but the other hasn't, you could find out which two wires are the signal wires, then bare a little bit of each anywhere along their length, then connect the two with a basic jumper lead. Which is just a wire with an alligator clip on each end. After you connect the two, they'll agree, and as long as one circuit is good it should work well; one signal will drive both circuits, and of course they will agree.

I had to do things like that fairly often as an easy way to diagnose redundant circuits. On a customer's rig that would just be diag, then an actual repair would follow, but if it was my own rig I'd know what I'd done, and I'd probably leave it until some convenient time came along to actually fix it.

And of course, if that doesn't work then it was a different problem, or perhaps both circuits failed. But at least all of your wiring is still intact and it's easy to put things back how they were.

but i am not wanting to strip wires…just tap into them.

hence my question.

have you looked to see if it's printed on the insulation?

the wires, now 21+ years old, are (were) taped with that thick cloth-type electrical tape all the way up to the point where they entered the connectors. I stripped the tape off, but between age and goo i can’t see any lettering on the wires, despite my feeble attempts at cleaning.

The "red" series crimp connectors work on 16 - 18 ga. wire. The kind that tap into a wire without stripping are (3M) Scotch-Loks.