... I'm going through that problem now: I am waiting for a fuel system wiring harness from Ford for my wonderfully running 2006 Freestyle with almost 200K miles. so far it's been 2 months with no indication of how much longer it'll take. They're making it for me. I waited for over four months in 2019 for a transmission that Ford built from parts for $4,000. I've just spent close to $4000 for front and back struts in the last four months. They are blaming the pandemic and supply line disruptions from Covid. I got it for free from my sister when she got a Volvo about eight years ago.

This car runs fine and with the money I've spent on it, it's still significantly less than a ten year old used car, that could well have mechanical problems I've already resolved.

There is no law requiring them to make parts for any specified amount of time

... which is why built a new transmission and are now building a new fuel system harness. That covers all parts including ones not covered by warranty that I have paid for. Ford admits no responsibility for the high failure rate of CV transmissions, but they will make one if you want to pay for it, because my mileage was under 100K, where the majority of these transmissions failures occur. Some warranty extensions are worth the money.

How is it still covered under a 10 yr/100k mile warranty?

five years ago.

So we agree: Ford has no obligation to have parts for vehicles over 10 years old under a ten year warranty warranty. Unless you buy the drivetrain extended warranty, which I did.

What is your real disagreement?

Metallic debris left over from the manufacturing process on these engines have caused restrictive oil flow to connecting rod bearings, sometimes resulting in seized engines.

The trouble started around 2017.I didn't find an article that the metal debris problem is solved, but read that Kia is more willing to work with buyers if the encounter a problem.

It is concerning. My daughter and her husband bought a 2023 Hyundai Palisade. Even if I didn't see Palisades mentioned in the stories I read, I'll tell her about it.

Thanks!

To the CU first and see how much I can borrow then go shopping.

Here's something I wrote up a while back, after helping several people purchase replacement cars.

Rules for buying a used car

1. The internet is your friend. Use it.

2. Figure out more or less what kind of car you want, then go to www.cars.com and look for vehicles like that in your area. I will leave it up to you as to what you can afford.

3. Hopefully you will find several of what you want at more than one dealership. Now go to the websites of those dealers and see if they have any other cars you might be interested in.

4. Kelly Blue Book. Now go to www.kbb.com and look up the value of the car(s) you are looking at. The site will give you three different values. They are from lowest to highest: the trade-in value, private party value, and [retail] value which is what you can expect to pay at a dealer.

5. When buying from a dealer, you can assume that the very most they have invested in the car is the trade-in value. Use that as your starting point in price negotiations.

6. Carfax. Always get a Carfax report on any car you are serious about buying. Good dealers will directly link the Carfax report to the listing for the car. Other dealers will simply print one out and give it to you when you ask. If a dealer ever refuses to give you a Carfax report leave that place and do not return.

7. If you have chosen to buy from a private party, you can sign up for a thirty day membership in Carfax. It will be money well spent. Do not buy a car without looking at the Carfax report.

8. When buying, say, a Honda from a Honda dealership, there should be no need to get an independent inspection of the car. If you distrust that dealership that much, go elsewhere.

9. When buying, say a Honda from a Ford dealership, you are probably also in no need of an independent inspection. Good dealers only sell cars they think are pretty good, whether or not it’s their brand of vehicle.

10. When buying from a free-standing used car lot, or from a private party, always take it to a mechanic of some kind. Call ahead to your favorite mechanic, or to the service department of the appropriate dealer to find out what they charge. This is money well spent. Trust me.

11. Some dealers, and some used car lots are better than others. Trust your instincts. If you don’t feel comfortable, if anything going on around you feels shady, leave. There are plenty of dealers and used car lots out there.

12. When you actually go to a car lot, bring with you printouts of the cars you’re planning to look at. Have written on them the values you got from kbb.com or Edmunds.com. Remember to start your negotiations with the trade-in value.

13. Test drive. Test drive. Test drive.

14. Do not buy the car the same day you first look at it. The best plan, when you are first going to dealers or car lots is to tell them that you are in the preliminary stages of looking for a new (replacement) car. No matter how eager you really are, don’t let them know it.

15. Be pleasant, but don’t smile a lot, especially if you are female. Maintain a neutral expression. Make it clear that you will work with that salesperson if you return to buy. Get his or her card and keep the promise when you do finally buy.

16. Do not be desperate. If your current vehicle has died, borrow or rent something while you search. If your current vehicle has been totaled in a wreck, hopefully you have the clause in your insurance that covers the cost of a rental for a couple of weeks.

17. Know how much you can afford and do not be talked into spending any more.

18. If possible, shop for a car loan before you begin this process, so you have your own financing in place. Again, the internet is your friend. Just Google car loans and you’ll find a number of websites on the topic.

19. Do not actually engage in price negotiating until you are pretty much ready to purchase.

20. If at all possible pay cash.

Here are some of the basics:

The internet is your friend. Use it.

Use an on-line pricing service (I'm fond of Kelly Blue Book, www.kbb.com) to find out prices. With a used car, I assume that the dealer never has any more than the trade-in value invested in the car. Use that number as your starting point for negotiations. If a particular dealership is charging noticeably more or less than the other places for the same kind of vehicle, something is not quite right.

Price negotiation should be the absolutely last step in the purchase. Know what you can afford and do not go over that amount. That may mean buying a less fancy or less new car than you'd like. Too bad.

Never be desperate and needing to buy the car right now. If your car has died or been totalled, borrow or rent a car to drive to the dealerships. Always behave as if you're not terribly anxious to buy just now.

Be friendly and polite, but maintain a neutral expression. If you're a woman, try not to smile too much. Really squelch that inclination to be smiley and friendly. No matter how much you'd like a particular color car, don't talk about that until very late in the process.

Go to the car lots and dealerships alone. Especially don't go with a spouse. If you're at the point where you're going to let them look at your trade-in, make sure you've brought along a spare key in case they decide to pull the "We've misplaced your key" trick. And then leave because they're unethical.

Trust your instincts. If for any reason you feel uncomfortable, leave. Because I bought so many cars in such a short time I got to be pretty knowledgeable about dealerships and used car lots in the Kansas City area. There was one in particular, a dealership for my own favorite brand of cars, that always made me feel icky, and after a while I stopped going there.

Absolutely do your research. Start out on-line by seeing what's out there in your area. I do this on the Kelly Blue Book site, and since I last bought a car, I see they allow for the kind of search that is most useful, such as body type, fuel type, transmission, and so on. Since I only drive a stick shift, that would have saved me a lot of trouble back when I was doing all that purchasing.

Also, once you've found a vehicle or two you might like at a specific car lot (which is the term I'm going to use to cover dealerships and free-standing used car lots) go to their website and see what else they have, as not everything will show up on the KBB site. A really good lot will make the Carfax report a part of the listing on each vehicle. Look at it. If there's anything you don't quite understand about it, make sure it gets explained to you at some point. If any car lot won't give you the Carfax reports, leave. Do not do business with them.

If you'd rather purchase from an owner, buy a membership in Carfax. Trust me, it will be worth it.

If you're buying from an individual or a free-standing used car lot, you must get the vehicle inspected by a mechanic. It's well worth it. If you're buying from any major manufacturer's dealership, that's probably not necessary. If you think they're that unreliable, shop elsewhere.

If it's at all possible, pay cash. If it's not, buy less car than you can afford, never have a loan that has you owing more than the car is worth, because if you have the misfortune to be in a wreck and it's totalled, you not only don't have a car, but you owe additional money, since your insurance only covers the current value of the car. Anyway, once you've paid off the loan, put that loan amount into a separate, dedicated savings account. The next time you need to buy a car, you are ahead of the game.

Test drive. Leave the car lot. Don't let them bamboozle you with the "Lots of people are interested in this specific vehicle" nonsense. There are always more out there, and usually more of the specific make and model you want. Even your color choice. Also, when buying used, more cars show up every single day. I have more than once visited a lot, not found what I want, then a couple days later double check their website and now they have exactly what I want.

Hang out if at all possible and watch what happens. See how they treat customers, see how they behave when not dealing directly with customers. I once wound up spending about three hours at one used car lot while my son test-drove a lot of cars. The sales floor was tiny and crowded, and I got to see a lot of sales being finalized -- this place was quite busy and later moved to a larger location. There was nothing there my son wanted, so we went elsewhere to buy. Five days later when his brother's car was totalled, I went straight back to that place and we did find one that had just come in. After we took delivery on it, the a/c wasn't working, so I took it straight back to them and they fixed it. It's a place I recommend.

I have found that the internet has drastically altered the car-buying process, and it's in favor of the buyer who makes use of it. You can show up armed with a ton of information about cars in general, and the specific car you're interested in. In short, do your homework, know what you can afford, and don't let yourself be rushed into the purchase.

Useful and thorough resource for just about anyone!

I'm glad I saw you had written this previously and not just overnight. That would be above and beyond.

Thank you for the advice. Bookmarking.

So they all know they are bidding. I heard this tip years ago. The guy got competing bids back and got a good deal on a used car for his daughter.

But I saw a dealership about 70 miles from here that had new Kias for under $21,000.00. I wondered if I should let the local dealer know I found a better price.

I was asking about the local dealer getting a car from another dealer and who could do the warranty checkups because the dealer 70 miles away has better prices. I just don't want to drive over every few thousand miles to get the oil changed.

Thanks for letting me know I'm getting savvy out here. lol

It can also be possible to have more than one dealership bid on a new car.

I bought a new Honda Accord, I wanted it in black, they had everything but. The salesman checked the inventory at other dealers and found my exact car about 30 miles away, so they just sent them a red one and traded for my black one. That way I was able to do the deal through my dealership, I had bought a few cars from them in the past, and they have an excellent service dept. Win win .

P.O.'s post upthread offers a wealth of great advice. I hope you get what you want!

and wanted one for years. When I test drove, I found the road noise very loud. This was a few years ago; perhaps they've improved it and perhaps it's just my own noise sensitivity, but just fyi.
Also, I have heard that Kias are easy to steal so the insurance rates can be high. I'm not sure that the Soul or Forte are on that list, but you might want to check with your insurance agent.

Finally, when I was researching the Soul, I found something that made me want it even more: The design is inspired by a boar with a backpack. I never quite saw it, but enjoyed the concept. Here's the NY Times article about it.

https://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/16/automobiles/16kia-style.html?unlocked_article_code=1.1U0.AA87.pSBNNestm_lO&smid=url-share

(We ended up buying a used LEAF which is the best car I've ever had, but I only run errands in town in it so the short range works for me. Plugs into the garage wall like a toaster.)

it is old and high mileage, only repairs so far are alternator and a frozen lug nut that had to be cut off (not car's fault AT all). it also has a touchy ac fan switch that seems to be a fairly expensive repair that is worked around by hitting/kicking the area of the console near floor on drivers side when fan doesn't come on normally. I think it is a capacitor that is malfunctioning. cheap part, high labor dismantling half of dash and console.

my main design gripe is black interior. too hot for the desert and shows all dust. wish it was grey. go for the plus model if prices are reasonable or at least get the back tray and cover and the front console insert. also highly recommend the name brand windsheild sun screen. pricey but worth it.

as with any new car, invest in a spare or at least a donut. don't forget a jack and star wrench.

Never bought a car in my lifetime that did not already have one.

pretty common now to just have a small air pump and flat fix only, if even that.

my perspective is rural where we had to/learned to change tires before we could drive.

People should check and see what is in their trunk so they know what to do. Wouldn't hurt to practice changing one either.

In my 45 years of driving, I think I only had to change a couple by the side of the road.

You seem to have had good luck, but I have little confidence in long term reliability on any Kia/Hyundai product. I really like the K5 GT-Line, but wouldn't buy one. Also, everyone has their own tastes, but I find the looks of the Soul atrocious.

for a trip to Baja. it had just enough clearance, was roomy for big/tall people, the back seat is even decent! lots of cargo room. pretty good sound system (my standards aren't super picky) just loved it so a year later I bought one.

you do have to take into account my usual vehicles have mostly been old pick-ups, not luxury or sports vehicles. LOL

I cleared the 300K miles last year and it still starts and runs great, hatch back is getting a little squeeky/rattly but a fair amount of those miles have been on dirt roads.

of me taking a wheel off the family car when I was about 5.
It was a set up by dad did when he was making films with his 8 mm windup camera.

yeah a bit younger than my memory of the need. I am sure I was helping bring branches and rocks to get out of being stuck in sand at that age, though.

if a car we had didn't have it. I don't think the Prius has room, not sure, but he didn't add anything except jumper cables to the cargo area.

A couple years ago, the Prius had a flat at the house. I called AAA and they sent a guy out. I had to pull about everything he needed out of my basement. I don't think he brought anything useful to fix a tire. I had to find a wrench. When he got the donut out, it was flat. I brought out my elecric inflator. Then I brought a 50 ft. extension cord. Every trip I made to get one more thing, I was rolling my eyes and snickering.

My mechanic is just up the road, so I drove it up on the donut and I think got the tire repaired. I didn't like driving on a repaired tire, so when it got too nerve-wracking, I got new tires.

Thanks for all of your comments.

Has nothing to do with where you bought it.

I would shy away from any dealer who ran radio ads with a teaser price, and then when you contacted them, told you those were suddenly all sold.

Personally, I have never owned one, but have concerns about long term reliability of Kia and Hyundai vehicles.

walked right out.

told me on the phone models at that price weren't available. I cheched the reviews for that dealer, and they were mostly favorable. I went over to see a 2023 Kia Soul with 17,000 miles on it. He said I could get $4000.00 min for a trade, and get the remainder of the 10yr/100k warranty. I told him when I met him, I was there because of the radio, and he showed me vehicles in the range. My daughter was with me, and she was trying to talk me into a Sportster. lol

That dealer will get a 2024 Kia in on June 29th that I'm supposed to go look at.

I have to start somewhere It isn't urgent and knock wood, my Prius is doing fine.

Thanks!

Same with 'the Google'.

in my opinion based on reliability

Hertz has some pretty good prices on electric vehicles right now (Tesla, Chevy
Bolt, Subaru Solterras, etc.). They also have quite a few conventional vehicles for sale at prices that are somewhat better than the used marketplace. Enterprise has a similar set of vehicles for sale.

She is starting to look for a new/different car, too.
Thanks!

Kia’s recently had a a recall because they were catching fire.
We have a regular car garage we go to. Big on local food programs. The owner grew up really poor.

I was dropping off my daughter’s car for inspection. Someone else was dropping his car off and the front desk guy was explaining that Kia’s need oil changes more frequently because they burn a lot of oil. After the guy left I asked the front desk guy and he said “Kia and Hyundai can’t keep on engine going. They just can’t make a good engine”

Something to think about. Oh and this chain of garages pays their front desk people straight salary. They get nothing encouraging up-selling. In fact I was twice asked why I thought I needed wheel alignment. They do a complete diagnostic and text it even on just an oil change or state inspections.

I love it. 47 miles per gallon. They are made in America.

Too many questions/variables in this to answer, but this is related:

Last July I had to buy a new car. My BMW with 196,000 miles was running fine but maintenance $$$ getting REALLY expensive on a 14-year old car.

At my age, I opted to get new. My last car ever.

What I want to tell you is - the technology upgrades in cars over those 14-years is massive!!! In safety, drivability, functions, maintenance, you name it! After 10 months I’m still learning what this car has available to me.

Note #2: From 14-years old to new my insurance more than doubled. Expect that.

Note #3: Asked insurance agent for tips on lowering premiums and he gave me two easy tips and cut my premium $360 - while I was on the line with him! Call yours and ask.

His best tip: get the insurance company’s app that monitors your driving; safer drivers get better rates.
How much better? After 6-months my annual premium on my new car dropped $350.
My next 6-mouths - a $445 drop.!
That app dropped my annual premium by 43%!!!

On another related note: See all those cars underwater in Florida last week? Make sure you don’t buy a car from Florida! Or Texas. Or Louisiana.

Part 2: All those flooded cars? YOUR insurance will go up because of that flooding. Mine, too.