some folks say they keep an edge forever, which I just want it for normal "pocket knife" use, and others that say it breaks after 10 minutes.

I don't know, that's why I'm asking. It's pretty cheap, but I've never had one so I don't know how bad or good they are, that's why I asked. I have an array of screwdrivers to pry with.

and what attracted me to the ceramics is the lighter weight. There are plenty of 440 steel options that suit my needs, but I was just wondering if anyone had used a ceramic and can tell me about their cutting capabilities. A major plus for me is that it is anti-conductive.

http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCH401-Ceramic-Carbon-Folder/dp/B00HQXU3TM

Review:



I'd just like opinions on someone that owns one.

EDIT: As an aside, I use a DMT sharpening set.

this is utilitarian and the blades are cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-41830-Pocket-Knife-Exchange/dp/B0016KHW2W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404743089&sr=8-5&keywords=folding+razor+knife

I prefer steel, and this steel in particular:

http://www.gerbergear.com/Essentials/Knives/E-Z-Out-Skeleton_46751

http://smile.amazon.com/GERBER-E-Z-Out-Skeleton-Serrated/dp/B00004WA57/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407906497&sr=8-1&keywords=gerber+ez+out+knife

For under thirty bucks (at Amazon - the Gerber MSRP is closer to forty) you can get a durable, quick-access, made-in-USA folder that will last a lifetime with minimal proper care and occasional sharpening.

My only criticism is that the clip is kind of junky, I carried my first few clipped inside my pocket, and lost them. My current Gerber EZ Out folder rides in a belt sheath, and I've had it and used it daily for well more than a decade. The clip is bent though. But in a belt sheath, that does not really matter.

-app

I've seen a lot of ceramic knives, and a lot of broken ones (kitchens are harsh environments). If it's just a general-use pocketknife that you can live without then it's a good option, they do stay sharp pretty much forever - but if it's something you're relying on for camping or "survival", stick with steel, specifically non-serrated. It won't break, and straight edges are much much easier to sharpen, even on a river rock in a real pinch. This guy's been living in my pocket for years and I wouldn't have it any other way.

They are hard to sharpen on a stone but if you get a paper wheel it's a breeze

That sounds interesting!

http://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-Wheels-Diameter-Center-Adapter/dp/B000HFQU98

You just put it on your bench grinder . I've been sharpening knives and tools for years
using this method. This is the method every pro knife sharpener uses.

You know that razor sharp edge you have when you first buy a new Benchmade or Buck knife?

This is how they are sharpened in the factory before they are shipped out. The way I found out about this is I
kept wondering how the hell brand new knives come so sharp but when trying to duplicate the factory
edge I never could, until now.

I was working as a cook in a big restaurant and a box truck use to come by every couple of weeks and take all the kitchen
knives out and bring them back in a half hour. I just went out there one day and talked to the guy doing the blades.

This was way before it became more popular due to the internet and just information sharing.
It was actually a trade secret so to speak. The initial set up will be just about $100 bucks more or less
with wheels and a bench grinder from harbor freight .

There's plenty of videos now on youtube of guys using them . If you decide to invest in the set up just be sure
the first couple of knives you sharpen are your cheapest knives until you get used to it.
It's really not a big learning curve at all before you can make a blade as sharp as you want.

Especially with the modern ultrahard steels, there's absolutely no power tool that can touch a blade that's been properly worked up on a 0.92 micron synthetic water stone. It goes so beyond "razor sharp" it's barely comprehensible - I took a huge chunk of my thumb off once, clean through the nail, and felt nothing beyond a gentle pressure. For softer stuff like my Wusthofs, a 1000-grit followed with a traditional steel still makes a factory edge look positively butter-knife.

Of course, it's also much more of an investment, both in the $350+ of stones and the year or so it takes to get them down. Mastering them is a lifetime.