Bicycling

I ask for Raleigh sells BOTH as a Venture 3.0. AS to the steel version I do NOT know what is meet by the term "Steel Comfort Geometry" when it comes to the frame, is it a Chromium and Molybdenum steel tube (Commonly referred to as Chrome-Moly) Frame or a High Tension Steel Frame?

http://www.raleighusa.com/archive/2012-comfort/venture-3-0-12/

For more on Chrome Moly Steel see:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/41xx_steel

For more on Molybdenum:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum

For more on Chromium
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium

Chromium is the key material in Stainless Steel, but Stainless Steel is about 10% Chromium, unlike the low Chromium in Chrome-Moly Steel:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stainless_steel

To most people this sounds stupid, something with the name High Tension Steel has to be better than other steel, and it was the wonder material of 1900 (had the Titanic been made of it, and it could have been, it would have survived the iceberg).
Chrome-Moly Steel was the Wonder material of the 1930s, it permitted more rigid frames which in turn made pedaling easier. Most department store bikes are High Tension Steel, but some today are Chrome-Moly (use NOT to be the case, but people have learned the difference). With the advent of TIG welding in the late 1970s, the cost of Chrome Moly Frame has dropped to be not that much more then High Tension steel (Prior to the 1970s, Chrome Moly framed had to use butted joints or be brazed, not welded, this made them 2-3 times the cost of High Tension Steel Frame that could be just welded together). Chrome Moly Frame are almost as Rigid as Aluminum frames, and the more rigid the frame the easier it is to peddle (High Tension Steel absorbs up to 70% of the power applied to the peddles compared to Chrome Moly Steel, thus it is easier to peddle a Chrome Moly frame then a High Tension Steel Frame).

Aluminum is even more rigid then Chrome Moly Steel (Through NOT the big jump as between High Tension Steel and Chrome Moly Steel). Titanium and Carbon Fiber frames are even more rigid, but again not the big jump from High Tension Steel to Chrome Moly Steel.

As to the other components, the Aluminum and Steel Venture 3.0 appears about the same:

For the Aluminum 3.0 Venture:
http://www.raleighusa.com/archive/2011-comfort/venture-30-11/

Both come with a seven speed rear gear, nine speed has been the top end for the last 20 years but is good enough for most people (unless you want to ride up a steep mountainside, without having to dismount, in such situations I recommend dismounting and walking the bike up the mountainside even if you have a nine speed).

The Shifters on both are the same, Shimano TX-51 and Shimano Altus
SHIFTER and Shimano SL-RS31 Revo 7spd. Good systems, not top end (XTR) nor what I would recommend (XT) but good enough to use till you decide you like biking and want to upgrade (Which I recommend you do, to the XT level, XTR is twice as expensive as the XT, but is NOT twice as good, it is designed for racer to get a slight advantage, something you will never really need). P.S. I have XTR components on my Cannondale, when they wear out I opt for XT, I am NOT racing and thus do not need to spend twice the money to get 1% better performance.

Weinmann Rims are among the best, The CN-520 is on the low end of their range, but good enough for the next five or ten years, at which point you may decide to replace them. Again, get into riding and see if you want to stay with it before you upgrade. If you do upgrade I recommend you contact PeterWhiteWheels. Com

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/

Peter White makes wheels from rims and spokes. He is NOT cheap, but his wheels will last 10 years or longer with rough usage. I like him for he can make a front wheel with a Generator in it for the use of lights. I have used one for over ten years and I like it, no need to worry about the battery going out (but you do have to worry about the wires). Please note these are NOT cheap (Starting at $279 and going to $350 just for the generator, the spokes and rims are extra). Please note he sells conventional incandescent lights and LEDs, I recommend you get the LED lights

His web site on Schmitt Genertor hubs:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.asp

Since you are just starting to ride, I do NOT recommend the generator wheel, but after six months or so, you may want to look into it. He also sells generators for the side of the Wheel AND battery powered lights. Wheel Generators can be 12 volts at $306, six volts at $52. The 12 volt produces more light at speed, but requires high speed, the Six Volt has more drag (for it uses cheaper components then the 12 volt generator AND the hub generator) and I would NOT recommend it (The hub generator is that much better). The advantage of these generators is you can use your existing wheels, the down side is they are affected by the weather more then a hub generator is.

I bring up Generators for it is October, but before you decide on a generator look into a battery LED headlight and taillight and remember most states law only require a HEADLIGHT on a bicycle at night.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/dymotec.asp