Travel

Both within easy reach of the city. Great mountain and coastal experiences.

Fado (Portuguese soul music). Find a bar or restaurant that has it and prepare to be awed.

Grilled sardines. Even if you don’t like sardines, order them. Trust me on this. If not, a simple grilled chicken or anything grilled. They are geniuses of open-fire cooking. Find a cheap place in the Alfama if they still exist.

Vinho verde in endless quantities.

The people.

Obidos, if you can get there. I think it’s about 90 minutes out. An ancient walled city of immense charm. Walk along the wall and don’t worry about falling.