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Around 1999, it was pretty bad.
Desperate poverty and hunger every where.
Draconian and in your face policing and harassment of citizens.

People were very thin, poor, drawn, pale.
Withdrawn, no eye contact.

Red hat police every where, giving you a hard time over nonsense.

It was so scary.

Then ten years later, a miracle happened.
Food everywhere in China, and cheap.
People laughing, happy, talking, making eye contact.
More middle class, not poor.

No Chinese gestapo police.
More plain clothes cops, giving people more space.

So the second trip was the trip of a lifetime.